Finally, after more than a month of research and planning, we embarked on a DIY vacation to Kyoto and Osaka, with a side trip to visit Shirakawa-go in Gifu prefecture. This was our first visit to mainland Japan on a free-independent-traveler (FIT) leisurely pace utilising the impressive and superb Japanese transportation network, after gaining experience from a self-driven vacation to Okinawa 2 years back.

Just 5-6 years ago, visiting Japan without a tour guide would have been a daunting task in view of the language barrier. With Japan getting ever more traveller-friendly, modern technologies like GPS, Google Translate App on Smartphones, and tips from various online travelogues, enjoying a trip here is much easier. The itineraries and planning in this article are suitable for families with kids as well as couples.

Brief insights on Kyoto, Osaka and Takayama.

Osaka is the 3rd largest city with a population of 2.67m while Kyoto is in 8th position with 1.47m. Kyoto does not have its own airport and is accessed via Kansai International Airport (KIX) for international travellers. In Osaka, you’ll find an interesting mix of cultural activities, modern architecture, and vibrant nightlife while Kyoto is a more cultural and touristy destination. This is why accommodation and food tend to be more expensive here. Takayama, on the other hand, is a city in the mountainous Hida region of Gifu Prefecture and the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage village of Shirakawago.

Our Trip Route and Travel Tips

Our 9 days trip flow was taking a Vietnam Airlines flight from Changi Airport to Kansai International Airport (KIX) in Osaka, where we headed straight to Kyoto upon arrival, then drove to Shirakawago via rented car, staying a night at Takayama before returning to Osaka for the final leg of the trip. Do note that sunset time in winter is about a quarter after 5pm, so you have relatively shorter daylight hours to visit attractions. A slightly longer trip would be advisable to cover more ground at a more leisurely pace. The following are some useful tips for the DIY trip.

• Tip #01 – Do sign up with YouTrip to enjoy the best exchange rate, security and convenient payment mode. But do keep cash ready for daily expenses.
• Tip #02 – Download the Google Translate app on your smartphone. It’s indispensable, especially when reading menu or voice translation. There are many useful apps for trains schedule or even restaurants recommendation. But personally, Google Maps is the most useful to me. Train, food, car parks, etc, are all you need in one free platform.
• Tip #03 – You will need an international driving license which can be applied online with AA Singapore. But your local driving license will still be needed for verification by the rental car company. Please retain the receipt when pumping petrol as the rental car company may ask for the latest receipt when you return the car. Driving in Japan is generally safe as most drivers are law-abiding and traffic rules are similar to Singapore and cars are right-hand drive.
• Tip #04 – A Suica Card which you can buy from Changi Recommends is absolutely important for traveling on the Japanese transportation network like trains and buses.

Day #01

My “photo ritual” which I captured my daughters on the luggage trolley being pushed by my wife. I have been doing this for the last decade and lining up the pictures, you can really see your children growing up.

Kansai International Airport (KIX), Osaka

We touched down at Kansai International Airport T1 after a red-eyed 8.5hrs flight on Vietnam Airline (with a 2hrs transit at Ho Chi Minh Airport). The weather was a lovely chilly 4°C in the early morning.

We headed to Kyoto via the comfortable Airport Limousine Bus, which took only a relaxed 1-hour ride. We almost had the entire bus to ourselves as only 7 out of the 40 seats were occupied during that time. Tickets for the buses can be purchased via the ticket machines located at the bus bays. Alternatively, you can purchase online via kkday for a slight discount. But as the kkday airport counter opens only at 8.30am to redeem the tickets, you will have to wait as the morning flight touches down shortly after 7am. Immigration efficient processing took only about 20min and our Singapore biometric passports are accepted by the airport e-Gate system.

Nishiki Market – The Kitchen of Kyoto

We left our luggage at our hotel as we arrived before check-in time and proceeded to visit our 1st venue – The Nishiki Market- Kyoto’s largest traditional food market. While modern food stalls and curio shops have moved in, there are still ample traditional shops to give you a glimpse of what a traditional shotengai (shopping street) must have looked like.

A seafood vendor, many of such stalls at the market. Choose the stall that appeals to you as prices are pretty similar throughout the market.

The stall owner preparing our 1st order of the trip – a sashimi platter. Patronising the stall “entitled” me to stand at the best spot for a picture. 

Really fresh seafood according to my girls as I don’t really have the stomach for raw seafood. Do be aware there is a “no eating while walking” advisory to improve visitors’ experience. Diners can either eat their purchases at the shop’s interior if available or by the side lanes.

A Tamagoyaki (layered egg omelette) chef skillfully rolls his masterpieces during cooking. The rectangular pan used to cook the omelette are called makiyakinabe or tamagoyakiki.

You will notice water-filled basins called chōzubachi at the Nishiki Tenmanju Shrine, which are used for washing hands and mouth to cleanse ourselves before entering the main Shinto shrine.

The Tenmangu Shrine with the photogenic overhead lanterns is located at the east end of Nishiki Market and is dedicated to the Shinto god of learning. 

Ichiran – Solo-dining concept.

Our first lunch of the trip was at the popular Ichiran, the solo-dining concept diner. We had planned to visit the unique black burnt ramen Gogyo Ramen but this renowned eatery will do just fine.

Our orders came from behind the bamboo screen. The onsen egg came unpeeled so you can enjoy the tactile feel of de-shelling the egg. But should the shell stick to the egg, the staff will replace it with another at no cost. The tap at the left dispenses cool complimentary drinking water.

Gachapon – Capsule toy-vending culture

Gashapon (also called gachapon) is a variety of vending machine-dispensed capsule toys popular all over Japan. “Gashapon” is onomatopoeic from the two sounds “gasha” (or “gacha”) for the hand-cranking action of a toy vending machine, and “pon” for the toy capsule landing in the collection tray. Usually at 200¥ (S$2.20) per try.

Mimaru Kyoto Station – Serviced Apartment

The room ergonomics and aesthetics were spot-on with switches simply where you need them to be and the beds are very comfortable and have ample charging points throughout.

Perfect for a family of 4. I will not hesitate to stay here again should we revisit Kyoto or their chains elsewhere in Japan. It operates as a serviced apartment concept so housekeeping is chargeable. But towels are replaced and trash cleared daily with compliments.

Gion – Kyoto’s most famous Geisha district

A nap session after checking in at the hotel meant that we visited Gion slightly late. We did not walk around much except exploring a few lanes among the conserved heritage houses where we managed to see a few geisha scampering about but were unable to shoot any pics as it was too dark.

The Food Hall was where we had a superb 70min eat-all-you -can Beef shabu shabu at Tajimaya (level 7), with 4 servings of beef and pork (that’s 8 plates of relatively thick-sliced meat). It was eating non-stop and the meal cost about 12,500¥ (S$160) for the four of us.

After dinner, a stroll by the Kamo River where the riverbanks are popular walking trails for residents and tourists. In summer, restaurants open balconies looking out to the river. There are pathways running alongside the river on which you can walk along the river and some stepping stones that cross the river. 

Day #2

Arashimaya Bamboo Grove – Enchanted Lane

On Day 2 morning, I woke up early at 6.30am to ensure my family gets ready for our visit to the Arashimaya Bamboo Grove, which took about 45min train ride in the morning peak hour. We managed to arrive shortly after 8am, before the main crowd arrived here by 9am, which would make any chance of enjoying the place in serene comfort impossible.

It is a rare treat to be able to enjoy the calm beauty of the grove bathed in the gorgeous morning sun. In fact, the sound of the wind in this bamboo forest has been voted as one of the “one hundred must-be-preserved sounds of Japan” by the Japanese government.

We almost had the entire part of the bamboo grove to ourselves as the crowd was still sparse then. But no picture can adequately capture the feel of standing in the midst of this ethereal bamboo grove.

The last colour of autumn. We were blessed to be able to see the remnants of a season, soon to be shed.

By 9am, the first phase of the early crowd showed up, and soon the people on the bamboo path outnumbered the bamboo.

My daughter bought a couple of lucky charms from the Nonomiya Shrine, which you can’t miss as it is near the entrance to the bamboo grove. The main deity in this shrine is Nonomiya or the Goddess of the Sun and it is said that she answers prayers for health and wisdom.

I am always fascinated by Japanese packaging and attention to aesthetics.

Out of the bamboo forest, one of the snack stalls along the road outside the attraction, we just had to buy delicious mochi from this stall lady clad in a panda costume, who won us over with her friendliness and effort.

This stall named Kyozuan sells rich soft-serve ice cream which will not drop even if you turned it upside down. The ingredients of the ice cream include Arashiyama soybeans which are cultivated locally with no pesticide and are safe even for consumption by babies.

Along the venue, you will see several 1-man rickshaws waiting for customers. It’s ideal especially if you have limited time but want to get around as much as possible without getting lost. 

Our train to the next attraction at the iconic golden temple Kinkaku-ji, about 45min away with bus transfer at the Emmachi Station. Everything working like clockwork here.

Kinkakuji – Golden Pavilion

We arrived at the iconic Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) which top two floors are totally covered in gold leaf. The place was very crowded, as in other attractions. But the layout of the garden is such that you can have a good photo session. Do take note no tripod is allowed at this attraction.

At the top of the shrine, you will see the Golden Phoenix which represents divine power sent from the heavens to the Empress. If a phoenix was used to decorate a house, it symbolized loyalty and honesty in the people that lived there. Alternatively, the phoenix only stays when the ruler is benevolent and corruption-free.

The reflection of the temple trusses on the wavy lake surface makes for a nice mood shot.

Fushimi Inari Taisha – Vermilion Torii Gates

After about 50min of train ride from Kinkaku-ji, we arrived at another landmark attraction, the Fushimi Inari Taisha, with the torii gates shrine. The venue is very accessible as the Inari train station exits directly to the venue entrance.

As with all popular attractions in Kyoto, it’s bustling with visitors. One tip to shoot pictures without the crowd is to go higher up the torii gates path. But to have the characters on the torii gates, you need to turn around and look back as the inscribed characters face uphill. There are more than 10,000 torii gates along the paths.

When you shoot pictures of the torii gates going uphill, you won’t see the characters inscribed on the pillars. Each gate has been donated by a company or organization giving thanks for their prosperity and in hope of good fortune in the future.

After about a 30-45 minute trek, we reached the Yotsutsuji intersection about halfway up the mountain. Some nice views over Kyoto can be enjoyed and the trail splits into a circular route to the summit. Most visitors only venture to this spot as the trails do not offer many variations thereafter with decreasing gate density.

After descending from the hill, along the way to the train station at the main entrance, many shops and pop-up stalls are set up to offer snacks and refreshments.

Dinner @Yakiniku Hiro (Hachijoguchi Store)

Our day 2 dinner venue was just a 7 min stroll from our hotel. Certainly, one of the best beef yakiniku (grilled meat) we had on the trip. The restaurant is a 2-storey eatery where the main crowd is at ground level.

A selection of some of the best wagyu beef in Japan, at a reasonable price.

Only with the freshest beef can you have raw beef sashimi. My fussy eater daughters still reminisce about this dish long after the trip.

Day #3

Nara Deer Park – A ‘Free-range’ Deer Sanctuary

We reached Nara station, after an hour’s train ride from Kyoto Station. A quick 10min bus shuttle brought us to Nara Park.

The 1st thing we did was to buy the biscuits to feed the deer. At 200¥ (S$2.50) per pack of 10 pieces, that’s a pretty expensive biscuit. There is no entry fee to the park as the entire city is like a park, with the deer roaming freely. We end up “investing” almost 2000¥ (S$25) on biscuits just feeding and coaxing the deer to be our ‘models’.

The deer are a protected national treasure. Nara is a compact city with first-rate sights, including the famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Todai-ji Temple and Kasuga-Taisha Shrine. But it’s the deer that will keep you happy for the entire visit and imprint itself on your memories of Nara.

The deer can get aggressive as this pair showed, suddenly fighting over biscuits, right in front of my shocked wife and daughter.

As fast as they fought (about 30s), they made up and “kiss” each other.

A herd of deer resting at the park entrance area. Nara-koen Park (koen is the Japanese word for park) is the expanse of trees and open spaces that extends east from Downtown Nara and Naramachi, covering 660 hectares. 

We were blessed to have deer coming to pose with us at various parts of the park, perhaps our “investment” in biscuits helped plenty.

Todaiji Temple

The famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha), Todai-ji Temple are in the background. It’s awe-inspiring and one of Nara’s must-see attractions. But we did not enter the temple as we have a lunch plan and Japan’s fastest mochi pounders on our minds. 

Tempura @Tendon Makino Narahigashi

As we stroll along Higashimuki Shopping Street, the dining ambience and queue at Tendon Makino Narahigashi easily convinced us this is the place to dine. A check with online reviews listed this restaurant as the top-rated tempura tendon restaurant in Nara.

The staff prepares all our orders with a professional flair. We were surprised to observe all the staff in the diner are ladies. In Japan’s male-dominated restaurant scene, this is a rarity.

Our tendon set meal was awesome with the tempura sauce lifting the whole dish, with every item cooked to perfection. My only grouse was that we smell like tempura after that as the cooking odour permeated our clothing.

Japan Fastest Mochi Pounders @ Nakatanidou

We finally had the chance to watch up close, the renowned mochi pounders making their delicious Yomogi mochi. The master kneading the mochi in the picture is Mitsuo Nakatani, having helmed the shop for almost 30 years. Do check out the video below by Great Big Story©.

Nakatanidou has achieved the status of a local tourism icon in Nara city. You just had to watch the exciting quick-paced mochi-pounding session.

The shop is located at 630-8217, 29 Hashimoto-cho, Nara-shi. A 5-7 minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station and always see brisk business.

The freshly-made Yomogi mochi was oishi! Yomogi is a Japanese herb, called “Japanese Mugwort” in English. Nakatanidou Yomogi Mochi is made from good quality glutinous rice, azuki beans, roasted soy flour, and Japanese mugwort. A great snack at 150¥ (S$1.70) apiece.

Day #4

Shirakawago – a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Day 4 saw us waking up really early, collecting our rental car from Toyota- Rent-A-Car near our hotel, and drove about 3.5hrs journey to the Shirakawa village 280km away, for the UNESCO Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go.

We arrived shortly past noon and checked out the town information centre, where a scale model of a heritage house is displayed for visitors to understand the history better. 

Ogimachi – Shirakawa-go’s largest village and the main attraction, viewed from atop the Tenshukaku Observatory. It takes a 5min bus ride up from the pick-up point and costs 200¥/way. There is also another walking path but it takes a strenuous 15-20min climb. Certainly not advisable as it rained during our visit. The impressive feel of the village is only apparent when viewed from this vantage point. The walk around the village takes about 2-3 hours.

Gassho-zukuri means “constructed like hands in prayer”, as the farmhouses’ angled thatched roofs resemble the hands of Buddhist monks held together in prayer. The architectural style developed over many generations and is designed to withstand heavy snowfall during winter. The roofs, made without nails, provided a large attic space used for cultivating silkworms. (excerpt- Japan guide-com).

We were treated to an amazing view with the forest getting whiter and frosty from the drizzle, even as we looked on. It was greenish when we arrived just a couple of hours earlier. 

What better way to wrap up our memory of the beautiful village with a bowl of delicious Hida beef ramen at the village Irori Restaurant. You should try it too when you are at Shirakawa-go.

Ryokan Murayama @Takayama

After leaving Shirakawago, we drove immediately to our accommodation for the night at the Ryokan Murayama. We chose this traditional ryokan for its kaiseki, location, family room with attached washroom, and reasonable price. Not luxury grade but nice cosy ambience nonetheless.

Our futons are all laid out nicely in the cosy room on the tatami mat. This would be our kids’ 1st experience in a ryokan, sleeping under futons on the tatami.

The highlight of the night – a kaiseki dinner – an experience always looked forward to in a ryokan stay. Japanese usually practice the 3-times onsen “ritual”, once before a meal, once after the meal, and another in the morning before breakfast. We only soaked once before dinner and fell asleep after dinner.

Our fave dish of the kaiseki is the Hida Beef. Japan has a reputation for magnificently tender and high-quality domestic wagyu beef. There are many delicious varieties of wagyu but Gifu prefecture’s local Hida beef from Takayama is considered one of the very best.

The river fish being grilled is Ayu Fish from the Maze river. Ayu is the most popular freshwater fish in Japan and is considered a delicacy, especially when it reaches its peak season in the summer. The fish which is highly sought-after for its “watermelon-like” fragrance, feeds only on moss growing at riverbed rocks. The fish can only live in exceptionally clean streams is proof of how pristine the river and the surrounding forest are. It is grilled in a fireplace called irori, which is getting rare in modern Japan.

Day #5

I woke up to a beautiful chilly morning and saw the gorgeous Japanese Toyama alpine range from the room. My whole family was still sound asleep. I quickly dressed up to go to a better location to shoot the mountain peaks as the view from the room was blocked by cables.

The cosy town of Takayama with a view of the mountain peaks of the Toyama range. Takayama is the gateway to the highest mountains in Honshu island and all of Japan. The three mountain ranges (Hida, Kiso, and Akaishi) also house the longest and deepest gorge in the country, with six volcanoes and two lava plateaus. The natural beauty of the range has earned it the title of the “sacred highland.”

Miyagawa Morning Market

We took a short 5min drive to the Miyagawa Morning Market, along the Miyagawa River in the old town. It opens daily from 7am (8am in winter) to noon. At the Miyagawa market, sixty shops and stalls are set up in about 350 meters from Kaji-bashi Bridge to Yayoi-bashi Bridge along the Miyagawa River in the town centre. The stalls on the riverside sell vegetables, fruits, pickles, and spices while shops on the other side sell Japanese sweets and crafts. 

The pristine Miyagawa River is officially classified as a Class 1 river by the Japanese government and is one of four Class 1 rivers and the longest among these four that flow solely through the Mie Prefecture.

You can see Japanese Spotted Bill Ducks on the river, with friendly orange koi fish below the pristine river, an attraction by itself.

This Mochi stall owner was very friendly and humble. We bought two and loved them so much that we return to buy 4 more to eat along our drive to Osaka. He gave us a 5th mochi with compliments.

Look at that gorgeous Hida beef sushi that simply melts in the mouth. I had come across others commenting “move over wagyu, Hida is the best”. This is certainly erroneous. Hida Beef is one of the highly-graded wagyu, which refers to Japanese beef, and is any of four Japanese unique pure-bred cattle. Wagyu is a classification, not a type of beef.

The sight of steaming hot food always attracts me. This stall sells Hida Beef Bun, which is very popular with spicy or non-spicy versions.

The Hida beef bun was so memorable. My daughter is a ‘purist”, she requested the non-spicy to better gauge the original taste of the fillings.

Some Ichii Itto-bori wooden carvings to bring home? Ichii carvings are made only from the wood of ichii (Japanese yew), the prefectural tree of Gifu.

A Takoyaki stall always attracts a good flow of customers. Small eats and those that can be taken away are the most appealing to tourists.

The drive from Takayama to Osaka was smooth but the only grouse I have was the very expensive toll fees. From the exit toll fee at Osaka was 6930¥ (S$87), a short few kilometres drive to another toll gate came to 540¥(S$6.80) and then another 1320¥ (S$16.50), for a short drive into Osaka centre. The fee from Kyoto to Shirakawago was 6720¥ (S$84). But at least we get to enjoy the lovely sunset as we drove into Osaka.

Dotonbori – The Bright Heart of Osaka

After settling in our lodging and returning the rental car, we hit the neon lights of Dotonburi, in search of the iconic Glico Man – the one sign that has endured the longest, for over 70 years. While the 33m sign at the Ebusu-bashi bridge is a simple graphic with an athlete in a victory pose that looks somewhat out of place among the slick modern advertising that surrounds it, still has lasting popularity among the locals and international visitors, who congregate here to celebrate “triumphs”.

Another landmark signboard is the moving giant crab of Kanidouraku Dotonbori-Honten. It is well known for its huge range of delicious crab dishes. Definitely crab-lovers heaven.

One thing that most visitors to Dotonbori will surely not forget – is the immense crowd. It’s like the whole of Osaka residents taking turns streaming through this spectacular place, wave after wave.

Day #6

Kuromon Ichiba Market – Osaka’s Kitchen

Day 6 provided a little respite as we woke up a little later, so we can better tackle the day’s adventures ahead. Our 1st activity was to visit the Kuromon Market, just a 13min train ride from our lodging. Kuromon Ichiba is a bustling covered market that extends about 580 meters in Osaka’s Chuo Ward. Nicknamed “Osaka’s Kitchen” because both local homeowners and restaurant chefs get their supplies here, the market is famous for its fresh seafood and a wide range of eats.

This family-run food stall sells Imagayaki and a few other items like Okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake containing a variety of ingredients in a wheat-flour-based batter.

I noticed torch-cooking has firmly gained popularity in the cooking scene. It’s good to know that propane and butane are pure alkanes, which don’t produce anything nasty when burned. The complex molecules you get from heating the food itself have more potential for being harmful than the combustion products of a propane butane torch.

A giant snow crab claw, very fresh and delicious. This claw goes for 3000¥ (S$37.70).

Certain marine leeches deposit egg cases onto the outer surfaces of large crabs, such as snow crabs, in order to ensure dispersal and protection for the young leeches. But the leeches or egg cases do not penetrate the shell surfaces. It is ok to eat the King crab and snow crab legs that looked dirty with blemishes as black spots or barnacles usually signify more meat. A bright red, unblemished crab shell means the crab has recently shed its shell and has less meat.

Our “gamble with death” – Fugu, Japanese pufferfish, is notorious for the highly toxic poison (tetrodotoxin) contained in its organs. Also known as “fugusashi” or “tessa”, fugu sashimi is a usual way to eat Japanese pufferfish. We lived to tell the tale and lost 1280¥ (S$16) for this plate.

After the seafood session, we refreshed our palate with strawberries encrusted with crystalised sugar. The tart sweetness and the crackling sugar coating make it a memorable snack.

En route to our next attraction – Osaka Castle, we have to pass by the impressive Osaka NHK Broadcasting Center. NHK is Japan’s only public television and radio broadcaster.

Osaka Castle is one of Japan’s most famous landmarks and it played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century of the Azuchi-Momoyama period. (Wiki)

A licensed busker at the castle compound. This musician is pretty good with his traditional instruments and his piped instrument like an Australian Didgeridoo. The busking talent here is of excellent quality as they are vetted before being awarded their license.

Another busker from Spain. This performer certainly knows how to work his audience. Excellent comedian and a juggling artist.

Spotted a well-trained Shiba Inu, among the garden at the castle ground. Its entrepreneurial owner dressed it up and charges a fee for visitors wishing to have a picture with it.

Then it’s time for lunch, till now there isn’t a meal we hated. Even this mini hotpot restaurant which we chanced upon at the train station is just superb.

Den Den Town – Osaka’s Akihabara

Our final venue for the day, Den Den Town, tucked away in southern Osaka. It’s an “eDestination” popular with Japanese and foreign techies alike. Home to a wide range of shops that hawk a wide variety from computers, cameras, anime, and manga to power tools and white goods. Den Den Town runs along Sakaisuji Avenue in the Nipponbashi district. It is Osaka’s equivalent of Tokyo’s Akihabara.

Doesn’t this picture remind you of The Matrix? Rolls after rolls of manga and anime toys ‘encapsulated’ in the display cabinets awaiting their new owners. We visited this part of the town as my elder daughter is an avid fan of anime and manga series.

I really do not know what’s this character. A check with Google tells me he’s Goku, who made his 1st anime appearance in Dragon Ball (1986). The creators of Naruto, One Piece and many other manga/anime have openly admitted that Goku heavily influenced their stories and character designs.

Locals immersed in gaming after work. There’s even a Japanese word for ‘geek culture’ – known as ‘otaku’ and covers everything from gaming to the crazy, wacky outfits of Harajuku’s cosplayers.

There is even a “toy-gun” shop in strict-controlled Japan. Weapon enthusiasts can check out the one and only Gun Shop Gurkha. The airsoft gun won’t kill anyone here but you can buy model guns, gas guns, electric guns, and other accessories for playing survival games. Just don’t attempt to bring it back to Singapore though as it is prohibited.

Many visitors will be intrigued by the mini-cars in Japan. After World War II, Japan was devastated with many Japanese in those days having only money to purchase a motorcycle but could not afford to buy a proper car. The “Kei” car industry was introduced to jumpstart the automotive industry and as a transportation means for small businesses. 

After Den Den Town, we head back to Dotonbori for our 2nd-night stroll as the 1st night is not quite enough. I think there is little need for streetlights here as the neon signs are bright enough.

This Ichiran branch at Dotonbori offers better amenities, like winter jacket hangers and the partition can be swivelled away to make it a couple or family dining affair.

I waited patiently for the bamboo screen to open up to see the staff serving my order. The kitchen’s frantic work pace can be heard from the cubicle.

One of the nicest savoury-sweet snacks at Dotonbori, the signboard says ‘Wan Guo Tang” in Kanji. You can’t miss it at the left as you walk towards the Glico Man.

Visitors who just arrived here from overseas will certainly be overwhelmed by the immense crowd. But then, what’s Dotonbori without the crowd? 

Crossing the roads across Shinsabashi to Dotonbori, you can get to shoot panning shots of cars across the traffic crossings. What better than the iconic Toyota Crown taxi? It has disappeared from Singapore roads since 2014 as the taxis have been phased out because they could not meet the stricter Euro IV emission diesel standards.

Day #7

On day #7, we visit the Kuromon Ichiba Market once more, as we could only cover a small section during our 1st visit. Our elder daughter elected to sleep in as she was exhausted.

The Kuromon Ichiba Market, we have not gotten tired of it yet. Lots more to discover but guess we got used to the crowds by now. 

If you are a fan of sushi, this market will fully satisfy you.

Our 1st dish of the morning- Oden. This hearty Japanese one-pot dish is perfect for cold weather. It has a variety of ingredients such as daikon radish, konnyaku, atsuage (deep-fried tofu), beef sinew, eggs and varieties of fish cakes in a subtly flavoured soup.

A pair of “happy” Fugu (pufferfish) on the ice tray. The restaurant preparation of fugu is strictly controlled by law in Japan and only chefs who have qualified after three or more years of rigorous training are allowed to prepare the fish.

BBQ pineapple with caramelised sugar. Tart, sweet, sour and that crackling caramelised sugar makes for an interesting snack.

My wife receiving her order with what looked more like crab sticks & grilled beef skewers Presentation Ceremony.

My nose brought me to the best Japanese Beef Curry I ever tried so far, at New Daruni, manned by an old couple who founded the shop in 1947. The aromatic curry has just the right amount of spices and is addictive. Curry lovers will really enjoy the dishes here. Sachets of the pre-mixed spices can be bought home.

My unforgettable bowl of Japanese Curry Udon (650¥/ S$7.50). I will come back to Osaka just for this dish. They also serve beef, pork cutlet, and shrimp curry.

You will know a popular stall when you see one. Just like this shop selling salmon and tuna sashimi on rice.

Certainly worth the queuing, the Salmon & Ikura or Tuna & Ikura combination. Reasonably priced at 500 ¥/ S$5.70 per bowl.

Umeda Sky Building – City and sunset view

Our final attraction visit for the trip was The Umeda Sky Building (173m). A spectacular high-rise building in the Kita district of Osaka, near Osaka and Umeda Stations.

Souvenir outlet at the tower, there is no escaping. Basement, street level, up in the sky. Resistance is futile. 

The Sky 40 Cafe has one of the best viewing ambience in the city, the premium choice for sunset lovers.

Beautiful sunset and view of the Yodogawa river running to the sea at Osaka Bay.

A perfect end to a great trip, it has been a great vacation with more to come.

The futuristic tunnel effect when we descend to the exit via the escalator, it’s like being teleported to ‘space’.

Day #8

Day 8 is basically a return-home phase as we make our way early to Kansai Airport via taxi. The ride cost 12,000 / S$138 for a 45min journey. We could have taken an airport limousine bus service to save some money but with all that luggage and sleepy kids, it’s money well-spent.

Our plane waiting for us at the tarmac, a Vietnam Airlines Airbus A350-900. 

The cabin was cosy, the in-flight entertainment was good and for once, I actually finished all the meals. The legroom was very good and the seats were comfy. For the price of about S$600+/person, it’s actually quite a bargain. 

Conclusion

I like to describe this DIY family vacation to Kyoto and Osaka as a ‘training DIY” adventure that will see us planning similar trips to other parts of Japan. The country is well-connected with excellent infrastructure and with immensely helpful Smartphone apps, it just got even more travel-friendly. Technology has certainly changed the way we travel, releasing freedom back into our own hands and the fun of vacation.

Thanks for coming along with the pixels journey. For other self-drive adventures, do check out my other travelogues here. P.S. – All pictures used in this blog are all rights reserved and copyrighted to Jensen Chua Photography.