The Hidden Valley Resort – Shangri-La (Yunnan) Best Kept Secret

Tibetan Experience Hidden Valley Yunnan

There are countless resorts in exotic locations all over the world vying for tourists dollars offering unique experiences, great service and vibes. Indeed, it’s a boon time for the intrepid travelers as they are awash with innumerable choices. Having traveled consistently to many places over the last couple of years as a travel writer and photographer, I have to admit I am getting more, for want of a better word, “jaded” as the adventures stacked up. But the amazing Hidden Valley Resort effortlessly unraveled and made me fall in love all over again with wanderlust. If it sounded like a hyperbole, then please read on. I can only hope that my pictures and what I am able to share here, convince you why this gem of a place should be next on your travel planner.

Shangri-La – the myth and location

I have to dedicate special attention to the location of Shangri-la, as most readers (myself included), may misconstrue the location with the famed Shangri-La hotel chain. In the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton, who enthuses Shangri-La as a dreamlike mystical and peaceful valley, enclosed in the western end of the Kunlun Mountains. In the novel, Shangri-La denizens seems immortal-like, age defying and lives beyond a hundred years old . The Shangri-La term itself has come to be associated any earthly paradise, especially of a mythical Himalayan utopia.

Now the reality – Shangri-La or Xianggelila is a county-level city in northwestern Yunnan province, People’s Republic of China and is the location of the seat of the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Shangri-La was formerly called Zhongdian County (中甸县Zhōngdiàn Xiàn) but was renamed on 17 December 2001 and upgraded into a county-level city on 16 December 2014 as Shangri-La after the fictional land in that James Hilton novel in an effort to promote tourism in the area. (Wikipedia)

The resort

“Nestled high in the mountains of South-Western China, the air is fresh and the water runs clear. In the Spring, you will find the meadows carpeted in brilliant hues of pink or yellow. In Summer, the grass glows a rich green. In Fall, the hills are covered in golden leaves and pine needles. And in Winter, the snow glistens a pure white.” (excerpts from the resort website). Sounds like a fairyland indeed.

The resort sits on a 7 hectare site between two highland ridges, at the far end of the traditional Tibetan Bisong Village, just 20 minutes drive from the Shangri-la airport. It’s blessed with untouched beauty and serenity that befit the fabled land.

The resort entrance, always welcoming and homely with a toasty fire ready to warm you up in chilly times.

The resort fireplace – perfect for a chat or drink after a hearty meal or watch the scene at the meadow changes before your eyes.

The resort watering hole- The Qingke Library and Bar. It’s a Tibetan culture that each family has their own special recipe for distilling qingke (highland barley) liquor. The qingke is distilled with unpolluted water from the snow to create a local Tibetan potent “moonshine” that is not for novices. The resort actually selected and acquired some of their fave qingke liquor from families in surrounding villages. I sampled the “Chinese Vodka” and must say it has a smooth mellow aftertaste packed with a powerful punch. I love it !

The bar also stock a selection of the famous Black Yak Beer from the local Shangri-La Beer Company, which are brewed using local highland barley and the purest water. Their beers have also won several international awards.

This will be most guests’ favourite spot in the resort, where the amazing chef Aga (together with the general manager, Hazel, who is also an excellent cook) will transport diners on a gastronomic magic carpet ride with their masterful culinary skills.

Touches of beauty abound at the resort reflecting the resort’s founders sense of aesthetics and meticulous attention to details, which makes me feel at home really quickly.

The fabulous resort staff

Our memorable experience were made possible by the amazing staff who delivered service from the heart and took hospitality to a new level. The resort was built by the hands of local villagers and the manpower and resources to manage it are sourced from Bisong Village and surrounding neighbourhoods, promoting a sustainable mutually beneficial ecosystem.

The accommodation

The resort is a luxury-grade boutique set-up that currently comprises 5 tented villas that offers glamping (glamorous camping) and a 10-room/suites in a 2-storey 150-year old Tibetan residence building. The resort is the first in Shangri-La to offer glamping experience which is perfect for vacationers who want to be up-closed with nature but still prefer modern day luxury amenities.

The Tibetan Tents 

The 5 tented villa on a beautiful morning. The ambience, feel and the raw beauty of the valley is something all guests will appreciate and savour. I would even list staying at such fabulously fitted tents as a bucket-list item to any travelers.

The facade of the tent. Enjoy the serenity and beauty of the valley and for once, you will feel at peace, away from the hustle and bustle of city living.

Each spacious tent comes with a king-sized bed with heated mattress, WiFi connectivity, fireplace and all the necessary amenities for a comfortable stay.

Even in the secluded highland valley, you can enjoy a good rain-shower with heating-bar attached overhead to ensure you remained warm and toasty even if the temperature outside freezes over during the cold season. There is even a heated rack to dry your towels quickly.

For those used to Japanese automated WC, the provision of this high-end WC in the wilderness of the secluded valley certainly keeps to that luxury overtone.

The Tibetan Residence

The construction of the Tibetan Residence, is one of passion, love for authenticity and respect for local culture.  The 150-year-old Tibetan Residence was purchased from a neighbouring village chief, dismantled log by log, hauled all the way to the current site with yaks and reassembled in the traditional Tibetan style.

The Tibetan Residence facade, on a beautiful morning. Typically, Tibetan structures are constructed of natural materials such as stone, clay and wood with concrete being increasingly used. The most desirable building sites are on elevated land facing south. Flat roofs are used in most parts of the central and western Tibetan plateau where rainfall is slight. In prosperous agricultural areas, private homes may have up to three storeys. In herding areas where houses may be used only part of the year, they usually have only one storey.

A fireplace in the residence’s 2nd floor guest communal rest area. Plenty of rest areas and cosy corners make this place ideal for couples, groups and families.

One of the suites in-room rest area with fireplace. The staff will prepare the fireplace as part of turn down service. But it’s a very pleasant experience to light up the fireplace yourself, especially for city folks from the tropics.

The rooms at the Tibetan Residence are not cookie-cutter. The restyled residence has a total of 9 bedrooms spread over 2 levels. Some of the rooms can be converted into 3-bedroom family suites on each floor.

Tibetan houses are simple but built sturdy to withstand the tough living environment of agriculture and graziery here. But the resort owners objective is to impart authentic Tibetan experience but with comforts complete with modern fitting and heated bathrooms.

The heated mattresses are comfortable and assures a comfortable night sleep in the chilly night.

Lovely view of the meadow, tents and the mountain ranges right from the room at the ground floor. Every season brings forth a different look and colours.

The bay window came in handy as the ideal spot for a cuppa by the fireplace while enjoying all that beautiful scenery.

The gastronomic adventure

We had anticipated exotic cultural and nice food experience prior our visit. But the food was way beyond our expectation. It was relatively simple cuisine but the taste and culinary mastery were simply unforgettable. So good that I would fly here just for the food if I had the chance. Using fresh, locally sourced ingredients and vegetables from the resort’s own organic garden, the dishes are expertly curated to celebrate the flavours of Shangri-la.

Aga, the resort chef, his amazing culinary skills will have you remembering the resort all that much better and longer. Chef Aga can cook up a host of delightful local dishes like home-made tofu in spicy meat sauce or roast suckling pig with roasted potatoes and vegetables. Having worked at an Italian Restaurant, he also serves up a delicious Yak-meat pizza or a spicy Spaghetti Bolognese.

The resort GM – Hazel , showed us her culinary prowess. Her Szechuan “biang biang” mian is simply superb. The “biang biang” term is an onomatopoeia of the sound when making the noodle, as it’s being slapped on the table top.

The stewed beef sweetened with the resort organically grown carrots and radishes balanced with the perfect spices. I could go on but words can’t quite cut it. The proof is in the eating.

One of our meals came with a beautiful and colourful floral and vegetable salad. Paired with Chef Aga’s secret dressing, it was sublime.

A chef “at play” is a chef in love with his craft. I always like pizza but the pizza here tasted different. I think I felt the chef’s passion and love.

Chef Aga is definitely indulging us. No two meals are the same. The yak meat pizza was superb, so was the cream of broccoli soup and the salad.

The stewed pork for dinner during our last night dinner resort makes us felt like changing our flight home to a later date. So totally in love with the food at the resort.

Experiential activities with the resort

The resort conducts day excursion to attractions to the surrounding area, enhancing the experience of the trip. Of particular interest are the activities exclusive to the resort, like visiting a local Tibetan’s residence or observing a seasonal highland barley dehusking session that are not run-of-the-mill, making the trip memories just that much more unique.

Local Tibetan residence visit 

Lao Ye (Hidden Valley Resort caretaker) offering Tsampa (freshly knead highland barley dough). Tibetan breakfast are high-energy based to equip themselves for the rigours of physical day work and the cold weather.

Lao Ye’s daughter-in-law making butter tea for us. Butter tea, also known as po cha , is a drink of the people in the Himalayan regions of Nepal, Bhutan, India and of course, Tibet. Traditionally, it is made from tea leaves, yak butter, water, and salt, although butter made from cow’s milk is increasingly used, given its wider availability and lower cost.

The main staple of Tibetan food – Highland Barley (Qingke). It is the principal cereal cultivated on the Tibetan Plateau, used mainly to make milk tea or tsampa (roasted flour, usually barley flour and sometimes also wheat flour). It is usually mixed with the salty Tibetan butter tea and alcohol. Today, it is used to make beer, flour, bread, cakes or noodles.

Our resort host helping to “open” the gate to the family food compound, where radishes and highland barley are hanged out to dry. It’s an important source of food for the coming winter and whole year round. Their plot of agricultural land is located elsewhere among the highland.

Lao Ye showing some Qingke. A size of a family or wealth can be estimated by the amount of Qingke they have in the compound, as it relates to the size of arable land.

Visit the Old Tibetan Ladies at Mani Stones

A short 5min drive from the resort brought us to the three Mani Stones mounds that see a group of aged Tibetan ladies who turn up daily to offer their prayer ritual – walking around the Mani Stones for about 30min, placing pebbles after each round at the mound. An intriguing and amazing sight indeed.

The ladies turn up at the Mani Stones whether if it rain, shine or snow. And most of them walk a fair distance from their house which can be far away.

Their prayer bracelet, as they walk, counting one bead at a time.

I see stoicism in their eyes and face. A life city-folks can never quite fathom.

Younger Tibetan ladies no longer practise such disciplined ritual and this fascinating sight will slowly fade into oblivion as each of them passes on in time. It was a privilege to be able to capture this moment.

Local Village Culture

On the way back to our resort , we spotted a group of villagers dehusking their highland barley crop. The village has strong communal spirit with the young and old from various households helping each other. We only saw woman here as the men are out in the fields on other tasks, like tending to their cattle.

It’s a back breaking task but the strong and fit ladies make it looked easy.

The pace and swiftness of the ladies as they go about their task, belies their age. Certainly lending credence to the fabled Shangri-la strong and fit denizens.

The ladies’ joyful attitude as they go about their work will put many of us to shame. We have much to learn from them on how to stay happy and be happy.

Tibetan Bonfire dusk dance

The chilly night at the meadow with Tibetan music playing in the background and Lao Ye raking up a lovely bonfire at the residence compound, is one of the most memorable “in-resort” event that guests will savour. You won’t get to experience such activity at hotels in the city.

 

Having a BBQ in the tropics is totally different from enjoying a bonfire in a secluded meadow with 2-3ºC chill and stars popping out in the clear night skies.

Everyone gets to enjoy the warmth of the bonfire and friendship. Priceless moments are made of these.

Enjoying the warmth and glow of the bonfire amidst the serenity of the meadow, among newly made friends, makes it a special moment quite unlike most other “tourist activities”.

Stargazing outside just your tent or room.

The low-light pollution of the area makes it ideal for stargazing and astrophotography, as long as the cloud condition permits. Prepare to be enthralled as the night skies opens up, with shooting stars, Milky Way and the constellation laid bare for all to see.

The Milky Way right above the tented villas. Its an amazing sight for any city folks, as it’s impossible to catch sight of it in highly urbanized cities.

The Tibetan Residences with the stars out in full force. Truly a spectacular Tibetan night in the highland.

Getting artsy at the resort meadow

The valley gorgeous beauty can trigger the artist instinct, uncovering perhaps the Monet or Van Gogh in you.

Ride the resort Tibetan Ponies 

The resort owns the Tibetan ponies, so horseback riding are complimentary for guests who are keen for a taste of Tibetan “transport”. Lao Ye takes the ponies on rides daily around the meadow to ensure the ponies remained tamed and used to humans. 

Go trekking at the hills behind the resort

Great trekking up the hills located just beside the resort for a panoramic view of the valley. In the right season, the resort staff will also guide guests up the hills to gather wild mushrooms and bamboos shoots and chef Aga will cook it for you at meal time. This activity is truly interesting and an eye-opener for city-folks.

Excursion to Shangri-la attractions

The resort provides for day excursion to renowned attractions in and around the Shangri-la region. The following are just a few of the amazing locations guests can elect to visit.

Ganden Sumtseling Monastery

Ganden Sumtseling Monastery. Built in 1697, the monastery (also known as Sungtseling and Guihuasi) is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery situated 5 kilometres from the Shangri-la city at elevation of 3,380 metres in Yunnan province. It’s also the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the province and is commonly referred to as the Little Potala Palace.

Photography within the inner prayer halls are prohibited as dictated by the monastery rules. Do adhere to local rules for an enjoyable moment.

Songzanlin Temple, another temple within short stroll from the main monastery ground. The colourful and ethic artwork of the monastery are certainly a photographer’s heaven.

Potatso National Reserve

The amazing Potatso National Park , about 22km southwest or a 40 minutes’ drive from Shangri-la downtown area, covers an area of almost 300 square kilometres and ranges from 3500m to 4160m high. It is renowned for well-preserved primitive landscape, which is endowed with lakes, wetlands, forests, meadows, streams, brooks, rare plants and animals. Meanwhile, Tibetan culture and custom are also component parts of the park.

As the first national park on the Chinese mainland, Potatso was opened to visitors in 2007. In the park, there are three main scenic areas open to visitors: Bita Lake in the south, Shudu Lake which is a part of Three Parallel Rivers Scenic Area in the north and Militang Alpine Pasture in the middle. Some parts of the park are closed at the moment to facilitate rejuvenation.

The sightseeing buses run among these scenic spots and stop at fixed stations. Passengers can get on and off freely with one ticket. Drone pilots will be delighted as drone flying is permitted at the park. Juts remember to ensure all the registration is properly carried out.

There were so many birds at the park but I only managed to catch this ultramarine flycatcher at the end of our trek along the Shudu Lake.

The chipmunks in the park were so timid, that they only run out only for 1 melon seed, sprint back to their nest and then back again for another one.

Toward end of the day, the skies opened with a momentary streak of light, lighting up the two pine trees, just 15-20s and it was over. So lucky to record this sight.

Napa Hai Nature Reserve

Amazing scenery abound at the Napahai Natural Lake Reserve, which is 3,270m above sea level and covers 660 square kilometers. It is about 8km northwest of Shangri-La town. It is both an ideal field for herdsmen and a paradise for many species of birds. This is, in the true sense, a seasonal lake. When summer comes, snow on the adjacent mountains melts and flows down into about ten rivers forming a vast lake. 

In the dry season, Napahai becomes a boundless green grassland – the best time for herding sheep cattle. Every December- March, the lake again turns into a temporary sanctuary for migratory birds such as bar-headed geese, wild ducks and black-necked cranes which is one of the 12 rarest bird species in the world.

DukeZong Ancient Town

Two years after the catastrophic fire in 2014 which gutted large swathes of historic Shangri-la, the city’s old quarter was reopened to visitors. In a ceremony held on New Year’s Day, officials once again welcomed tourists to the 1,300 year old town, although much work remains to be completed, remade sections are now safer and more modern than before.

The 2014 fire burned for 14 hours and destroyed or severely damaged more than 300 Tibetan-style homes and businesses. Most of the affected structures were located in the old town area called Dukezong. The severity of the blaze was partially a result of old and sometimes ancient, interconnected wood buildings lining congested streets. Five hundred firefighters and some 1,500 volunteers were unable to quell the flames largely because fire trucks were too large to navigate the old quarter’s narrow cobblestone lanes.

Mini Tibetan prayer wheels souvenirs for sales. Some comes with battery power to spin the wheel.

Do stroke some of the prayer wheels located at the town center, at least for good luck.

City and provincial officials pledged 100 million yuan (US$15.4 million) for rebuilding efforts that they say will “respect local culture and restore the town to its original appearance”. For a first timer to the ancient city, the ambience is still decidedly archaic and worth a visit. 

Zhongdian Market

Shangri-La main wet marketing and shopping area. According to our guide, the rates here are easily 30% lower than elsewhere. Its quite a big area and a great way to observe local culture. Wet markets are my fave from a photographic perspective too, as it will warm up your senses to things you are unlikely see before.

All cuts of meat available for sale, the cool weather meant the meat stay fresher, at least for longer period without refrigeration.

A preserved meat vendor. The local cool dry air facilitates the making of such meats. It’s like the Yunnan version of Parma Ham.

A group of Tibetan woman selling their own products, either self-made or harvested from the highlands.

Strange looking product unique to this region – this pyramidal mounds are cheeses made from yak milk.

Fried “lian fen”, sort of radish cakes, sizzling in the pan.  Great eye-opener for food that we do not see in our hometown.

Conclusion

This short visit to The Hidden Valley Resort was truly a memorable experience quite unlike anything else I have experienced to date. Spectacular natural scenery, fabulous food, exotic location and impeccable service, the resort certainly scored all the ticks in the right places and more. My only regret was that the trip was too short but that’s perfect reason for a revisit again in the near future.

One of the concerns that may cropped up in the mind of most readers would be the location high altitude (above 3300m above sea level). I like to assure that the risk of high altitude sickness can be minimized by appropriate medication and trip planning . Another bugbear would the flight cost as there is no direct flight from Singapore at the moment and domestic transfer flight do adds up a fair bit. But on the bright side, this means that the region is not awash with hordes of tourists. It’s my personal belief that money can be always be earned but time once passed, is gone forever. The Hidden Valley Resort certainly deserves to be on everyone’s bucket list, trust me.

Many sincere thanks for coming along my pixels journey.  Should any readers be keen to enjoy this unique experience in the future, please feel free to drop me a message or check out Jetabout Holidays package HERE! In collaboration with Canon Imaging Academy, Jetabout and myself have organised a trip for photography enthusiasts next April 2019. Do join us on this bucket-list event. Information available here

Footnote: All pictures used in this travelogue are copyrighted to Jensen Chua Photography and all rights reserved. This trip was a sponsored event but that the opinion expressed is non-prejudiced, factual, objective and that of the author.

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